The Plateau du Retord
The Plateau du Retord is a little piece of paradise high up in the Haut-Valromey in the east of Le Bugey, an hour from Lyon, Geneva and Chambéry, but its proximity to large cities has not altered the unspoilt nature of the area.
A little corner of paradise in the east of Le Bugey
The Plateau du Retord is a little piece of paradise high up in the Haut-Valromey in the east of Le Bugey, an hour from Lyon, Geneva and Chambéry, but its proximity to large cities has not altered the unspoilt nature of the area. It remains a haven of peace where you walk through little dells known as ‘combettes’ before crossing the plateau itself, ready to attack the ascent to its high point, the Crêt du Nu (1,351m). The plateau is covered in snow in winter, much to the delight of ski and snowshoeing enthusiasts. In spring, just as the snow disappears, daffodils begin to show their heads followed by fragrant narcissi which carpet the little valleys before being picked for perfumers. In summer, mountain bikers and hikers follow designated paths through the forests. So you can see that the Plateau du Retord is a leisure area shared by both families and sporting enthusiasts.
If you’re looking for an unspoilt, friendly ski resort, then Le Plateau du Retord is made for you. With its 13 pistes and 9 ski lifts, it is an ideal family resort. The ski slopes are accessible from Les Plans d’Hotonnes. Equipment can be hired on-site. Apart from skiing the resort offers a snowpark, an ice rink, snow bodyboarding, pony rides and even biathlon ! An international stadium has been built to allow regional and national teams to train all-year-round. In the past the Ain region produced several biathlon champions such as Corinne Niogret and Sandrine Bailly. The success story continues today with the young Simon Desthieux.
The Plateau du Retord : skiing in winter and walking in summer
The Plateau de Retord has no less than 150km of slopes for cross-country skiing (classic-style and skate-style) ! They are accessible from 3 sites : Les Plans d’Hotonnes, La Chapelle du Retord and Cuvéry. La Chapelle du Retord is definitely the most unspoilt of the three. You can go from there to Les Plans d’Hotonnes or Cuvéry by cross-country skiing or snowshoeing. 11 snowshoe tracks are marked out every winter through forests and across wide expanses. During your outings, look for tracks made by wild animals. Occasionally a fox will cross your path, like in the Luc Jacquet film « Le Renard et l’Enfant » which was shot mostly in the area. Don’t be surprised to hear dogs howling when you reach Cuvéry as it is a centre for dog sledding. Introductory rides are available all through the winter.
In summer the ski slopes become footpaths. Enjoy a walk with friends or family along GR hiking paths or themed trails like La Boucle d’Oreille (a 4.2km wildlife walk) or the Sentier du Maquis (3½ hours) and for a major sporting challenge, the 18km Tour de Retord or La Ronde des Plans. Whichever you choose, keep your eyes open. The undergrowth is carpeted with blueberries which ripen at the end of July. Enjoy ! Mountain bikers are not forgotten with 8 designated circuits between Hauteville and Les Plans d’Hotonnes.
As well as fun and adventure, the Plateau de Retord also has a gourmet side ! Visit the cheese dairies known locally as « fruitières » in Aranc and Brénod to try and buy delicious Comté of different levels of maturity and which bears the PDO label of Les Comtés du Jura."
Our selection of accommodations
Our new accommodations
Lodging
Le refuge des gorges de l'Ain
in MATAFELON GRANGES - Ain
Lodging
Gîte en Valromey - Au pied du grand Colombier
in ARVIERE-EN-VALROMEY - Ain
Lodging
Les Granges de la Forêt
in L'ABERGEMENT DE VAREY - Ain