The Musée du Désert
The expression « désert » refers to the period between the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685) and the French Revolution (1789).
Why the "desert" ?
In 1598, to put an end to the Wars of Religion, Henri IV signed the Edict of Nantes which accorded freedom of worship to the Protestant Church. Less than a century later, Louis XIV revoked the edict, forcing the Protestants, known as Huguenots, to flee the country or go into hiding. Numerous Huguenots fled and sought refuge in Switzerland, Germany, the Netherlands and Great Britain, but many, strongly attached to their roots, remained in the Cévennes. A large number of these underwent a ‘fake’ conversion to Catholicisim to avoid persecution. But pastors gradually got organised and services were held in secret in caves or deep in the forest. Louis XIV stepped up repression, demolished Protestant churches, sent pastors into exile, closed the borders to prevent Huguenots from leaving France and imposed Catholic teaching on children. Women who refused to renounce their faith were imprisoned and men were sent to the galleys. In Cévennes, some 3,000 « Camisards » rebelled and stood up to almost 25,000 king’s soldiers for 2 years. Among the Camisard leaders were the emblematic Rolland and Cavalier.
The Musée du Désert, an account of life in the Cévennes
The Musée du Désert is in the house where Rolland was born in a typical little hamlet in the village of Mialet in the Cévennes. The rooms of this large stone-built house recount the history of the Huguenots, the periods of repression until peace arrived at the time of the French Revolution. We learn how a pastor’s pulpit used to be hidden in a barrel so it could be transported without being seen and how Rolland made a hidey hole in his house to escape from Louis XIV’s soldiers. The museum also depicts everyday life in the Cévennes at that time with an exhibition of local furniture, everyday objects from the 18th century and a large collection of etchings and paintings.
After visiting the Musée du Désert, go and see the Grotte de Trabuc which is also in the village of Mialet, near Anduze. This cave, which served as a refuge and gunpowder store for Camisards, has some amazing lakes and waterfalls but its most surprising feature is the « 100 000 soldiers », a unique ‘carpet’ of concretions resembling small stalagmites in one of the caverns. Round off your day with a swim in the clear, turquoise waters of the River Gardon followed by a walk around the lively little town of Anduze « Gateway to the Cévennes ». An evening market takes place there every Tuesday in summer. Treat yourself to a visit to the famous Bambouseraie en Cévennes (bamboo garden) or a steam train ride from Anduze to Saint-Jean-du-Gard.
How to get to the Musée du Désert dans le Gard
Musée du Désert - Mas Soubeyran – 30140 MIALET
04 66 85 02 72 – musee@museedudesert.com – www.museedudesert.com
Open 7 days a week from 1 March to 30 November, including Sundays and public holidays
09.30 – 12.00 and 14.00 - 18h00. July and August : 09.30 -18.30
Guided tour (no extra charge) of about 1 hour or visit on your own with an information leaflet (translated into more than 15 languages) and a special discovery booklet for children.
No guided tours between 12.00 and 14.30 in July and August."
