L'Aigle and the Country of Ouche
L'Aigle capital of Pays d'Ouche : architecture, gastronomy, Manufacture Bohin
Pays d’Ouche straddles Orne and Eure at the heart of Normandy and has the reputation of being harsh but, above all, very discreet. It takes some time to really get the feel of the area.
The area is a plateau partly covered with forests and rich in streams. Conifers grow well here including the famous Silver Fir which had its heyday when pitch pine furniture was fashionable.
The pretty town of L’Aigle is at the heart of Pays d’Ouche and has some very fine heritage buildings. The River Risles runs through the bustling town which has a maze of little streets of shops and bourgeois houses, mostly of brick. A hotel-restaurant, Le Dauphin, an old coaching inn, has been in existence for over 400 years. The Tuesday market was one of the largest in France for a very long time with kilometres of stalls. The Château in the centre of the town is now the ‘mairie (town hall). Before leaving the town, don’t forget to try the delicious local speciality, a type of smoked sausage called « cervelas de l’Aigle ».
On the outskirts of L’Aigle, at Saint-Sulpice sur Risles, stands Manufacture Bohin, the last factory in France to manufacture needles using a production method unchanged for a century. Some of its machines are listed monuments. The staff possess a unique savoir-faire and its extremely high quality production has long been appreciated by great names from the world of haute couture. You can tour the Manufacture Bohin to see the workshops in operation, a museum, exhibition halls and a shop.
Pays d'Ouche from the Forêt de Notre Dame Du Bois to Moulins La Marche
On the other side of L’Aigle lies the ruined abbey of Saint Evroult Notre Dame Du Bois, an important Benedictine then Maurist spiritual centre during the Middle Ages. The remaining convent buildings have been converted into a gite. The village itself is bordered by the monks’ lake where there is an outdoor activity centre with a treetop adventure trail.
The village gave its name to the nearby forest which has lots of woodland walks where the roar of rutting stags can be heard in early autumn.
Pays d’Ouche has lots to offer architecture fans in the form of flintwork and brickwork, some of it very imaginative. Make a little detour to the village of Saint Ouen sur Iton, shaped by its late colourful mayor, Désiré Guillemarre.
Désiré Guillemarre was mayor of the village for 52 years. It was he who instigated the twisted chimneys on houses in the village centre which are now conservation items. He even had a statue made of himself which was unveiled on the day of his funeral ! Don’t miss the 14-metre high column with a text glorifying the said mayor engraved on its base.
Not far from L’Aigle, the village of Moulins La Marche well remembers the late actor Jean Gabin who owned a stud farm nearby. The local racecourse is named after him. Make sure you try the local speciality : brioche ! And don’t miss the motte-and-bailey castle which is open to the public.
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