Le Puy-de-Dôme, a setting for Romanesque art
In Puy-de-Dôme Romanesque religious architecture flourished, contrary to other regions of France where Romanesque religious buildings were transformed or even destroyed to make way for Gothic edifices.
Notre-Dame d’Orcival, jewel of Romanesque art in Puy-de-Dôme
The Romanesque churches of Auvergne and their magnificent sober style of architecture have been carefully preserved and are a real joy to visit during a weekend break or a longer holiday.
This is one of the finest basilicas in the Massif Central, and even more so when it is decked in snow. It is tucked away in the Vallée du Sioulot, not far from La Bourboule and Mont-Dore. Built from 12th century onwards, it has retained the purity of its Romanesque origins. Whereas other churches and basilicas were modified over the centuries to be made larger and their architecture altered, Notre-Dame d’Orcival, no doubt because it was built to be big enough to welcome all its parishioners, has not undergone any major transformations. Only the interior decorations have disappeared. A Maesta dating from around 1170 still presides over the choir. After this spiritual interlude, you can enjoy a walk along the many footpaths nearby.
Notre-Dame du Mont Cornadore at Saint-Nectaire
Also built in the 12th century, the church of Saint-Nectaire overlooks both the new town and the old town in all its splendour. It is well worth visiting for its 103 polychrome capitals and its treasure. Its capitals are visible proof of the way bible stories were taught through images. They are a sort of forerunner of the strip cartoon ! You can see the Passion of Christ, Moses saved form the River Nile and even the Apocalypse…
The Abbey Church of Saint-Austremoine d'Issoire
The abbey church of Issoire is dedicated to Saint Austremoine, who evangelized Auvergne in the 3rd century and was the first Bishop of Clermont-Ferrand, whose calling ended abruptly in Issoire where he was martyrized (the people of Puy-de-Dôme were not as welcoming as they are today…). The abbey church which bears his name was built at the beginning of the 12th century. It has a magnificent apse and its 13th century polychrome, which was restored in 19th century, is fascinatingly flamboyant.
Notre-Dame-du-Port at Clermont-Ferrand
Often neglected in favour of the Gothic Cathedral Notre-Dame de l’Assomption, the light stone Basilica of Notre-Dame-du-Port is quite charming. It was built from 1130 onwards of light-coloured arkose and not volcanic stone. The Black Madonna in its crypt is said to have miraculous powers and was the object of a huge pilgrimage in the 17th century. The basilica has been subjected to the hazards of history : it was damaged by the earthquakes of 1478 and 1490 and seriously threatened during the French Revolution when revolutionaries wanted to demolish it to make way for a fabric market. Fortunately it was saved, restored and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site dedicated to the Pilgrim Routes to Santiago de Compostela.
Church of Notre-Dame de Saint-Saturnin
This is the smallest and plainest of the five jewels of Romanesque art in Auvergne. It was built later than the 4 others at the end of the 12th century. Its apse is typical of Romanesque art in Auvergne and it has an octagonal bell tower. Built of arkose, like Notre-Dame-du-Port, it is decorated with inlays of black basalt outside and 15th century frescoes inside, depicting the Raising of Lazarus and the Annunciation. Yet another way of teaching bible stories to congregations who could neither read nor write ! To take your time visiting these architectural wonders, make the most of the holiday rentals and B&Bs which are available near Clermont-Ferrand and all over Puy-de-Dôme.
Discover Puy de Dôme with Gites de France Puy de Dôme : Puy de Dôme, Livradois-Forez, Clermont-Ferrand City Guide, Chaîne des Puys"
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