Le Grand Colombier
This mythical mountain shaped like a cocked hat near Artemare, East Bugey in the Ain region, is the bête noir of all cyclists with a maximum incline of 14%.
Everyone has heard of Le Grand Colombier ?
This mythical mountain shaped like a cocked hat near Artemare, East Bugey in the Ain region, is the bête noir of all cyclists with a maximum incline of 14%. Its reputation is such that the Tour de France has been there four times and classifies the ascent as being in a category of its own ! Every Saturday, between June and September, the road via Culoz is closed to traffic allowing cyclists who dream of climbing this vertiginous ascent to do so in complete safety.
If you’re not a fan of cycling, you can still climb the mountain by car (not on Saturdays in summer) and zig-zag your way up to the pass just below the summit (1,534m). If you don’t have a head for heights, take the road via Lochieu or Virieu-le-Petit and avoid the road from Culoz and Anglefort. The 360° panorama from the top of the mountain is absolutely mind-blowing : in the distance, the Alps, Mont Blanc and the Massif de Belledonne ; on the plain, the three Alpine lakes : Lake Bourget, Lake Annecy and Lake Geneva. There are two orientation tables to help you, « Fenestrez » at 1,150m and « La Croix » at 1,525m. If you see any of the wild orchids during your visit, please don’t be tempted to pick them as they are protected species.
A few discovery circuits
Let’s say you decide to go down the mountain via Lochieu, stop off in the little village of Haut-Valromey to admire the stone-built houses with woodpiles neatly stocked at the side and visit the museum devoted to local traditions which holds a superb exhibition every year. Next head to Artemare, but not without making a little detour to the Observatory de la Lèbe, located at 900m above sea level and far from all light pollution. The observatory is equipped with a professional astronomical telescope, allowing observation of solar activity, sunspots, rays and much more. Sign up for a visit, it lasts an hour.
Continue to Artemare, the realm of waterfalls. The most impressive at 62m high, is the Cascade de Cerveyrieu on the outskirts of Grand Chassin. Next go to the Source du Groin, a splendid waterfall in unspoilt surroundings. Stop off also at the Gorges de Thurignin where the River Séran has hollowed out a succession of kettles which the water rumbles through noisily. If you prefer walking, put on stout shoes and go for a two hour walk on the Massif de Fierloz, an amazing karstic plateau.
Now head towards Culoz and stop at the Marais de Lavours. It takes about half a day to walk all around these exceptional marshes, which are ideal to visit when the weather is very hot. A boardwalk runs through the centre of the marshes and there are several picnic areas. Afterwards, you can visit Culoz itself and the 14th century Château de Montvéran, a castle where the composer Serge Prokofiev once stayed.
The only thing left to do is to relax on one of the beaches along the River Rhône, like Seyssel which has a riverside activity centre where you can try your hand at archery, hire a pedalo or a paddle board. Another option is to walk up Le Grand Colombier along one of the many paths : Circuit de Scioux, Circuit des Crêtes, Sentier des Chartreux, Crêtes de Sur-Lyand… You are spoilt for choice !"
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