The Pays de Gex
Entre le Jura et la Suisse, le Pays de Gex se tient au nord-Est du département de l’Ain. Pays de montagnes, ce territoire garde cependant une identité forte avec à l’ouest la belle rivière de l’Albarine et à l’ouest la frontière avec la Suisse, marquée par Fort l’écluse et par la présence du CERN l’un des plus prestigieux laboratoires scientifiques du monde.
The Pays de Gex, Land of Mountains
The Pays de Gex is in the north-east of the Ain region, between Jura and Switzerland. This mountainous area is marked in the west by the beautiful River Albarine and in the east by the Swiss border, Fort l’Ecluse and CERN, a highly respected centre for scientific research. In winter the Pays de Gex is the realm of skiers and in summer the slopes become hiking paths. But let’s start at the beginning. Start from the ordinary little town of Bellegarde-sur-Valserine to discover the famous « Pertes » de la Valserine, an extremely turbulent river which was the first in France to be classified as a « Rivière sauvage (wild river) ». Over the course of time the river has hollowed out giant’s kettles and other potholes in the limestone giving it a magnificent appearance. As you follow the path beside these amazing « pertes », you will be surprised by the tunnels and canyons hollowed out in the rock. You need to take care and wear stout shoes. Don’t even think of attempting to bring a pushchair.... Fishing enthusiasts are not forgotten and the Albarine is renowned for its brown trout.
The Valserine winds through the valley leading to the ski resorts of Les Monts Jura. On the way, stop off at Chézery-Forens to visit the “fruitiére” (cheese dairy) specialising in Bleu de Gex (blue cheese). Visit between 08.30 and 09.30 to watch the cheese being made and at other times to walk along the viewing gallery. The area is steeped in history. Cistercian monks founded an abbey here in 1140 but after the Revolution the buildings housed families and shops. Tucked away at the bottom of the valley, Chézery-Foreins is dominated to the east by the Massif du Reculet and to the west by the Crêt de Chalam, which can be reached along mountain paths from the village. The view from the top is absolutely breathtaking !
Continue your journey to Les Monts Jura and its four ski resorts of Lélex-Crozet, Mijoux-La Faucille, La Vattay-Valserine and Menthières-Chézery. The rather steep slopes of these little known mountains offer numerous sporting possibilities. Seasoned skiers choose Lélex which has 26 pistes for downhill skiing. The Crêt de la Neige (1720m) is the highest point of the Jura Massif. The slopes of Mijoux are gentler and suitable for both downhill and cross-country skiing. However, classic-style and skate-style enthusiasts head for La Vattay, a paradise for cross-country skiers with its 150km of groomed pistes, whereas families prefer Menthières, a small resort 15km from Bellegarde-sur-Valserine, which has a magic carpet moving walkway leading to an area for beginners. At Lélex, the « Club des Oursons » offers a wide choice of activities for children aged between 2 and 12 years old.
An area of culture and science
Now let’s come back to the eastern side of the Pays de Gex. At Saint-Genis-Pouilly, you will be surprised to see an enormous dome, which is part of the facilities belonging to CERN, the European Council for Nuclear Research, and the largest particle physics laboratory in the world. Engineers from all countries come here to carry out research on the laws of the universe with the aid of particle acceleration and detection facilities. Visitors aged 12 and over are welcome, so bring your children and grandchildren. A fascinating, enthralling experience !
Continue along the road to Ferney – the realm of Voltaire. Don’t hesitate to visit the château. After two and a half years of renovation, this beautiful residence is a history lesson in itself. Voltaire lived here for twenty years. On his arrival in 1758, he had the remains of a castle demolished and built the château to his own specifications. At the same time well-known figures from all over Europe came to visit Voltaire at Ferney, bringing prosperity to this little corner of the Ain region.
It only remains for you to go to Fort l’Ecluse, even closer to the Swiss border. This military fortification was built on the side of a mountain to control movement towards Geneva. Today the fort and its museum can be visited. There is also an adventure park offering various activities for all ages including zip wires, obstacles and monkey bridges. Seasoned rock-climbers can climb the Via Ferrata. Guaranteed thrills for everyone !
