The medieval village of Domfront
Perched on its rocky promontory with the outline of its ruined ancient keep proudly silhouetted against the skyline, the medieval village of Domfront keeps watch over the wooded Normandy countryside.
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The medieval village of Domfront looks out over wooded countryside
Domfront grew up around a fortress built by the Seigneurs of Belleme to protect their possessions. It provoked envy and was the subject of serious conflict between the Kings of France and those of England. In 1944, the lower part of the town was flattened by bombing.
Today the character village has preserved some of its medieval walls, huge defensive towers converted into homes and the ruins of a vast castle perched high above a valley where the little River Varenne flows. The historic village has several half-timbered houses, some fine mansions and courtyards. Since the 1920s the tower of one of the first reinforced concrete churches in France has been standing proudly above the rooftops. Climb up to the top – the 360° view is amazing.
The countryside around Domfront, a land of legends
The countryside around Domfront is typical of ‘bocage’ with fields bordered by hedges and dotted with the pear trees which have made the area famous. In fact, the pears which are no good for cooking or eating are pressed by farmers to give a juice which is skilfully transformed into famous perry, a fragrant, slightly sparkling pear cider. « One hundred years to grow, one hundred years of giving fruit, one hundred years to die off », is how the life of a pear tree is described, which explains why it is not unusual to see specimens which are several hundreds of years old. In spring, the pear trees are covered in white blossom which looks like snow to the untrained eye. The hills are topped with woodland; small villages still huddle around the church and the ‘mairie’; the countryside is dotted with manor houses rather than châteaux, some of which can be visited.
Tradition has it that King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table searched for the Holy Grail in the area. Visit the Fosse Arthour on the edge of the Manche département, known as a land of sorcery where it is said that Mont Margantin was the scene of Witches’ Sabbath at full moon and that a Dame Blanche can be seen on some evenings at the window of an old tower…
On a more peaceful note, every two years, Domfront holds a medieval festival in the castle gardens with troubadours, jousters on foot and on horseback and costumed figures. The village is destined shortly to become an important attraction linked to the Middle Ages in Normandy along with Château Gaillard in Eure.
For several years, between March and November, Domfront has regularly been invaded by cyclists ! In fact it stands at a crossroads of two major, popular cycle touring routes : Véloscénie, which runs from Mont-Saint-Michel to Notre-Dame-de-Paris and Vélofrancette which connects Ouistreham to La Rochelle.
Cyclists almost always stopover in Domfront. The Relais Saint Michel has ‘Accueil Vélo’ approval as it has special facilities for cyclists.
Explore Orne in Normandy with Gites de France Orne : Bagnoles de l'Orne, Pays d'Ouche, Suisse Normande and Pays des Haras.
